Second investment review by Fabrice Guéroux, this time presenting the Rolex Submariner 1680/8.
Why this reference?
This watch is one of the five references I have selected in the "Investing in a Rolex" category, meaning a watch with strong investment potential. And of course, a watch that I personally favor!
The Rolex Submariner, an iconic reference of the brand, is presented here in an 18k gold version. It was produced, like the steel version, between 1968 and 1979, but in much smaller quantities.
This model can be considered, in its gold version, as the brand’s very first luxury diving watch. It is aimed at a collector looking to own a sports watch that is rare and collectible, making it more exclusive than the steel versions. Over recent years, the Rolex Submariner 1680 has firmly earned its place as a must-have in any collection and has already demonstrated that its rising value remains very stable.
A model with great potential
Having observed the evolution of collectible watches for years, I can confidently say that this timepiece holds one of the most secure potentials among the brand's watches made in precious metals, and for several reasons.
First, the rarity of the gold model compared to the production of steel models. While Rolex has never disclosed the numbers, it is estimated that during this time, about 5 out of every 100 produced were in gold. Today, this can be observed in the availability of this model on the collectors' market. Gold is increasingly attracting sports watch collectors, and in my view, this Submariner will soon become one of the star watches in auction rooms.
The first gold diving watch
This was a bold move by the brand. After the success of the steel diving model, Rolex decided to produce a version aimed at a "luxury" audience. It was a daring choice, but the brand knew its clientele. Even though it did not achieve the same level of success as the Day-Date, this model managed to attract a wealthy clientele who wanted a sporty, masculine watch that truly stood out. What makes a collectible watch valuable is primarily its uniqueness.
The evolution of the model
Buoyed by its success and positive public reception, Rolex ensured that every subsequent version of its diving reference included a gold model and even introduced a gold/steel version in later references. Following the 1680/8 (with "8" being Rolex’s code for gold), came the reference 16808 (the first version with a sapphire crystal, also available in gold/steel as the 16803), the 16618 (available in gold/steel as the 16613), and the 116618 (available in gold/steel as the 116613).
The crystal
The 1680/8 reference is equipped with a plexiglass (plastic) crystal, nicknamed "cheminée" due to its thickness. A magnifying cyclops added to the crystal allows for easy date reading.
The bezel and insert
The bezel on this reference is also made of gold and is bi-directional without a locking mechanism (using click springs). The same rules for different insert series in the steel versions apply to the gold versions. Therefore, you may find MK1, MK2, MK3, or service inserts.
The movement
Movement 1570 without a quick-set date feature. The quick-set feature (independent date adjustment) would only appear with the 16808 reference, featuring the caliber 3035.
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The dial
The biggest difference between the steel and gold versions of the Rolex Submariner 1680 lies in the dial. For this reference, there is no "Red Sub" version. From its release, the matte dial markings were printed in gold. The indexes were not painted but made of thick gold. Their conical shape earned the dial the nickname "Nipple Dial." The only similarity with the steel reference dial is the early "meter first" prints (depth indication in meters before feet on the dial). While the "meter first" version is relatively more sought after than the "feet first," the price difference is minimal compared to the "Red Sub" or "White" versions of the 1680 steel model.
It is worth noting that upon release, the watch featured a deep black dial. Over time, some of these have changed color. Exposure to humidity, sunlight, sodium, and extreme conditions have made some dials more attractive than others. A matte dial that has turned grey is more desirable than a black dial, and the patina quality can be categorized into three types: black, medium grey, and light grey.
There is also a blue version of the Submariner 1680/8, which I will discuss in another article, as the variations in dial and insert colors deserve their own dedicated discussion.
The collector/investor perspective
Reasons to add this watch to your collection:
- Steady price increase (7,500 euros in 2005) with continued growth expected
- Low production over a decade
- Growing interest among collectors for gold versions of sports watches (demonstrated by vintage Daytona models)
- A watch that truly stands out from other vintage references of the brand
- An increasingly rare piece in collectible condition
Combine this with a still-accessible price, and you have a watch to collect with both pleasure and low risk, before its value makes it much less affordable, as we’ve seen with the Daytona.
