Unveiled during Baselworld 2006 on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus, the steel version of the Flyback Chronograph was featured in the Patek Philippe catalog for only 8 years.
This short production period in the history of the Nautilus did not prevent the model from undergoing subtle evolutions that we will reveal to you in detail.
The 5980 collection is still current at Patek Philippe for the rose gold version (all-gold or leather strap) as well as in the gold and steel version. Its withdrawal from the catalog will be marked by the introduction of the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph reference 5990.
The Nautilus Steel ref. 5980 was marketed from 2006 to 2014.
The launch of reference 5980 was an opportunity for the Geneva-based manufacturer to market its first fully in-house developed self-winding chronograph; all housed in a 44mm case.
The date must be adjusted five times a year, accounting for months shorter than 31 days.
The Caliber
The CH 28-520 C caliber (CH = chronograph and C for calendar) was developed in two versions: one with an Annual Calendar for reference 5960P and another without this complication for the Nautilus 5980.
Its use is still relevant today, as the manufacturer continues production of the 5980 in rose gold, and more recently with its use in the Aquanaut 5168 unveiled during Baselworld 2018.
We note the evolution from the Breguet spring in early series to the Spiromax spring, the latest patented innovation by Patek Philippe, made of Silinvar, significantly improving isochronism, resulting in enhanced accuracy.
The sublime movement of the 5980, unique in the world, combines a traditional column-wheel control system with a modern vertical disc clutch, eliminating any risk of hand jump or backward motion when the chronograph is engaged. This represents a true technological feat that Patek Philippe can boast about. Since the clutch causes almost no wear, the central chronograph hand can also be used to display the second continuously, thus avoiding the need for a small seconds dial.
The "flyback" function allows for instant timing even when the second hand is in motion, with a press of the pusher at 4 o'clock without resetting to zero. Transitioning from the chronograph function to the second display is done similarly, with the option to synchronize the second hand to a time signal as with a "stop second." The large "mono-counter" dominating the lower half of the dial clearly displays 60 minutes of timed events as well as 12 hours on the Nautilus model. These indications are complemented by a date window at 3 o'clock with instantaneous change in a fraction of a second.
In summary, the movement of the 5980 is unique, combining great sophistication and elegance.
Illustration of the CH 28-520 C caliber
In its evolutions, we note that the CH 28-520 C caliber was marketed under the Geneva Seal from 2006 to 2009, and it was then replaced by the Patek Philippe Seal from 2009 to 2014.
The Geneva Seal (also known as Poinçon de Genève) is a third-party organization defining the highest standards in watchmaking (decoration of the plates, accuracy, movement reliability, etc.).
Aiming to stay ahead of its competitors, the Geneva-based house decided to break this historic partnership in 2009 to introduce its own seal, defined as follows:
"A comprehensive quality label, the Patek Philippe Seal applies to the entire finished watch, including the movement, case, dial, hands, pushers, straps, and clasps, as well as all other elements contributing to the functionality or external perfection of a timepiece. Covering technical, functional, and aesthetic aspects, it highlights not only the craftsmanship of the watch but also its precision and reliability, as well as the quality of service. It integrates all the expertise and distinguishing features linked to the design, manufacture, and long-term maintenance of an exceptional timepiece."
From 2006 to 2009, the caliber bore the Geneva Seal.
Illustration of the Geneva Seal on the CH 28-520 C caliber
From 2009 to 2014, the caliber bore the Patek Philippe Seal.
Illustration of the Patek Philippe Seal on the CH 28-520 C caliber
A true watchmaking feat, the CH 28-520 C automatic caliber requires no less than 327 components and offers 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz). The central chronograph hand requires so little mechanical friction that it can be used continuously as a seconds hand.
Illustration of the technical characteristics of a CH 28-520 C caliber
Illustration of the technical characteristics of the Patek Philippe Seal caliber (post-2009)
The Dials
Initially unveiled with a blue dial, reference 5980 was marketed with different types of dials:
- Blue dial in 2006
- Black dial unveiled at Baselworld in 2010 (along with the rose gold leather strap version)
- Silver-white dial in 2012 (produced for only three years under the Patek Philippe Seal)
The table below summarizes the evolutions of the Steel 5980 (Dials and Seals).
| Year |
Blue Dial |
Black Dial |
Silver-White Dial |
| 2006 |
Geneva Seal |
|
|
| 2007 |
Geneva Seal |
|
|
| 2008 |
Geneva Seal |
|
|
| 2009 |
Geneva Seal |
|
|
| 2010 |
Patek Philippe Seal |
Patek Philippe Seal |
|
| 2011 |
Patek Philippe Seal |
Patek Philippe Seal |
|
| 2012 |
Patek Philippe Seal |
Patek Philippe Seal |
Patek Philippe Seal |
| 2013 |
Patek Philippe Seal |
Patek Philippe Seal |
Patek Philippe Seal |
| 2014 |
Patek Philippe Seal |
Patek Philippe Seal |
Patek Philippe Seal |
Although not forming a perfect circle when mounted in the Nautilus, the dial is printed on a perfectly circular disc.
Illustration of a 5980/1A-001 dial with its white gold indexes
The first version, commonly called "Blue Dial," is referenced as 5980/1A-001. The Patek Philippe papers define it as follows: Black Grid Dial Grey Index + SLM C3.
Illustration of the back of a 5980 dial
The Luminova indexes and hands provide increased readability in the dark.
Illustration of a Luminova dial on a 5980
Without being able to provide a definitive explanation, we have identified at least two different blue dial versions based on typography.
Illustration of Dial Version A
Illustration of Dial Version B
In Version A, the word "Swiss" is positioned above the numbers 7 and 5 in the hour counter. The 6 in the hour counter appears closed. The 25th minute is not italicized.
In Version B, the word "Swiss" does not extend past the numbers 7 and 5 in the hour counter. The number 6 is more open, and the 25th minute is italicized.
The black dial version appeared at Baselworld 2010 under reference 5980/1A-014, introduced alongside the new rose gold leather strap version. Patek Philippe defined it as follows: Black Grid Dial Zone Grey Index + C1.
Illustration of the black dial on reference 5980/1A-014
The silver-white dial debuted at Baselworld 2012, simultaneously on references 5711 and 5726. The model was then referenced as 5980/1A-019. The date window is encircled. The hands receive treatment that reflects silver or black depending on the light. Patek Philippe described it as "Silver Grid Dial Black Index + C1."
Illustration of the silver-white dial on reference 5980/1A-019
There are also rare examples sold by Tiffany & Co. featuring a specific marking on the dial.
This article focuses on the steel version of the 5980. However, we can also note the existence of:
- Blue Dial unveiled on the gold and steel version 5980-1AR-001 in 2013, described on the certificate as "Blue PVD Grid Gold RG Index + C1."
- Brown Dial on reference 5980R-001 Rose Gold Leather Strap, described on the certificate as "Brown Grid Zone RG Index + C1."
- Black Dial on the all-rose-gold version 5980/1R-001, defined as "Black Grid Gold RG Index + C1."
The Bracelets
The bracelet features polished central links with satin-finished outer links, all mounted on a folding clasp bearing the Calatrava cross.
The link fastening system evolved over time. From 2006 to 2012, links featured a screw fastening system.
Illustration of the 5980 bracelet with screw fastening system
After 2012, the links in the Nautilus collection were locked with a rivet system.
Illustration of the 5980 bracelet with rivet fastening system
The Serial Numbers
The certificate lists two numbers: the first corresponds to the movement number, and the second to the case number.
Illustration of the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph certificate. Numbers are intentionally blurred.
The serial number of the movement is visible on the bottom left, partially blurred.
To access the case number, full disassembly is required:
Removing the bezel allows verification of the case number, which includes several hidden engravings.
Collection Potential
The Nautilus reference 5980 Steel has seen sustained demand, with a 100% increase in value over the past four years. Vintage references in the Nautilus collection and the highly limited new versions suggest real growth potential. This trend is supported by the latest results achieved at major auction houses.
