As we continue our journey through the world of iconic watches, we are delighted to bring you a closer look at one of the most coveted models in the Patek Philippe Nautilus collection. This review aims to delve into the rich history of a specific Nautilus model, one that has captured the hearts of watch enthusiasts for decades.
In 2006, the Geneva-based watchmaker revitalized their Nautilus collection by releasing the 5711, followed by the 5712 and 5980. In 2010, they added another successful model, the 5726, solidifying the Nautilus line as a favorite among enthusiasts.
Evolution of the Nautilus family ©Patek Philippe
The Nautilus collection, designed by Gerald Genta, has been thriving for over 50 years. The collection has grown to include many variations, combining precious metals and complications. The 5726 introduces the first steel watch with an annual calendar in the Patek Philippe collection. The caliber is based on the Nautilus 5711's caliber 324 and also used in the Aquanaut collection, with the addition of the annual calendar and moon phase complications.
The dial offers perfect symmetry, like the highly sought after and now discontinued reference 5980, unlike the 5712 which is sometimes criticized for its asymmetry. The annual calendar displays the day of the week and month in two apertures at 12 o'clock. The day of the month is displayed at 6 o'clock. This incredible complication only requires an annual adjustment because February has only 28 days. It's a true testament to Patek Philippe's mastery of watchmaking complications.
The origins of the development of this complication within Patek Philippe date back to 1996 with the annual calendar reference 5035.
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Image of annual calendar ref. 5035 |
Image of ref. 5035 showcasing the annual calendar complication |
When it comes to the moon phase feature, the Nautilus collection has featured it on three models: the ref 3712, the 5712, and the current model, the perpetual calendar 5740G. The version with the black gradient dial bears reference 5726-1A-001. The screwed-in crown guarantees water resistance up to 120 meters.
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The black gradient dial version is identified by the reference number 5726-1A-001. |
An image of the ref. 5726A white silver dial, featuring the reference number 5726-1A-010. |
The bracelet of Nautilus 5726
As with all Nautilus watches produced after 2012, the bracelet is secured using a riveting system, as seen in the image below.
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Image of riveted bracelet 5726 |
Caseback of 5726 with the opened folding clasp |
Our experience wearing it
The Nautilus 5726, with its added complications, is thicker than the 5712. However, its ultra-thin caliber with a micro rotor still makes it thinner than the 5980 or the current 5990 travel time. The perfectly balanced dial with the annual calendar complication gives it a lot of elegance while still maintaining the proportions of a sports watch.
Image of ref. 5726 on wrist.
The black and white dial steel version of the Nautilus 5726 had a commercial lifespan of only 8 years and was discontinued around Baselworld 2019, introducing the 5726 steel blue dial version with reference number 5726-1A-014 and an official boutique price of €41,670.
The Movement
The in-house movement features a 21K oscillating weight, similar to the 5711 and 5990 models. With reference number 324 S QA LU 24H303 (QA for Annual Calendar, LU for Moonphase), the balance wheel has a frequency of 28,800 alternations per hour (4Hz). A watchmaking masterpiece, the movement is made up of no less than 347 parts and has a power reserve of 35–45 hours, along with outstanding finishes. The movement is stamped with the Patek Philippe hallmark, as is the case with all Patek Philippe movements after 2009.
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Image of calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/303 - Front |
Image of calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/303 - Back |
Image of operating instructions manual
Technical characteristics of the caliber 324SC
| Overall Diameter |
33.3mm |
| Height at bridges |
5.78mm |
| Number of parts |
347 |
| Jewels |
34 |
| Power reserve |
45H |
| Winding rotor |
21ct gold central rotor, unidirectional winding |
| Balance |
Gyromax |
| Vibrations/Hour |
28,800 (4Hz) |
| Hairspring |
Spiromax |
| Hallmark |
Patek Philippe Seal |
The Dials
The model has experienced multiple changes in terms of bracelets and dials. The table below summarizes the changes brought to the Nautilus 5726.
| Year of production |
Reference |
Dial |
Bracelet |
| 2010 - |
5726A-001 |
Grey |
Leather |
| 2012 - 2019 |
5726/1A-001 |
Grey |
Steel |
| 2012 - 2019 |
5726A-010 |
White silvered |
Steel |
| 2019 - |
5726A-014 |
Blue |
Steel |
Like the 5711 and 5980, the Nautilus 5726 had a silvered white dial in 2012. The indexes and hands received a new coating with black reflections. Note: the leather strap of the ref. 5726A-001 is not interchangeable with the steel strap of the more recent models and vice versa (the attachments are different). The indexes are gold, as is customary on Nautilus dials, a trademark that has its appeal...
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Image of the Black Dial Grey Index SLM C1 |
Image of the silvered dial Black Index C1 |
Image of Blue dial |
The Future of this Timepiece?
The Nautilus 5726 steel range has undergone a complete overhaul with two models removed from the catalog to introduce a new one (blue dial). What can we expect for the future of this model? It is quite realistic to say that the model will one day be available in gold. We can easily imagine a rose gold version on a leather strap like the 5980 or even a white gold version like the incredible reference 5740G, which introduced the perpetual calendar complication on the Nautilus at Baselworld 2018.
As for the price, the official boutique price for the leather strap version in 2019 is €35,800. The last known official price of the ref.5726 on a steel bracelet (black or white dial) was €40,120. The new reference with the blue dial introduces a new price: €41,320, a reasonable 3% increase. As with other references, it will take patience to acquire this model, as the waiting list in Patek Philippe salons is not counted in days but in years. For more impatient enthusiasts, the second-hand market is not unreasonable, with the value of this model having increased by 60% in less than 6 months between 2018 and 2019.
