Rolex Submariner 6538, aka « Submariner James Bond »

In our endeavour to produce a variety of differentiating articles on collector's watches, we have tackled entire sections on the history of Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, presenting mythical models from expert, amateur, and collector's points of view. Among our hunting trophies, you will find our "claim to fame": the most widely read article on the Rolex Daytona in French a complete retrospective of the Rolex Daytona, the complete review of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Midsize, the Legend of the Rolex Comex, the history of the Aquanaut, the Rolex Submariner Red... to name a few of the most famous in the online world.

We always listen to your feedback and comments, and have come to the conclusion that an extensive online bibliography could not be complete without covering the myth of myths, the starting point in Rolex's legendary history, in other words, the James Bond Submariner... Again, since the 6538 model is so rich in anecdotes and developments, this article in no way aspires to be all-inclusive. We just wanted to shed our own light and affirm our affection for this mythical watch, and humbly come to suggest that beyond some "record breakers" at auctions for models 6538 (CHF 1,053,697 at Christie's in New York in June 2018), we would like to offer our own insights. CHF 371,431 at Antiquorum in Hong Kong in October 2018... there are (still) 6538 models on the market at affordable prices and in very acceptable condition. That is what we'll be talking about in this article. Again, it is necessary to be able to understand all the subtleties between the different 6538s...

James Bond's Rolex

Model number 6538 became legendary after it appeared in the James Bond film "Dr No", as did the Rolex Cosmograph 6239, an exotic dial on Paul Newman's wrist. In both cases, there is an abundance of photos available online with the two actors both wearing their "fetish" watches. These two watches are named after their owners' names, which makes them stand out from the crowd and naturally contributes to the legend...

There is, however, a slight difference, as the "Submariner James Bond" corresponds to a single model, the 6538, whereas the "Daytona Paul Newman" refers to a type of dial, the exotic dial. This gives collectors the opportunity to take advantage of seven models covering nearly 20 years of production. The 6538, meanwhile, only saw production for less than six years (from 1955 to the end of 1959), which explains why it is so appealing.

A rare and legendary watch

You guessed it, it is much less easy to find this model on the market than a Paul Newman, especially in good condition... It's the iconic "Submariner" and also without any doubt the most expensive and the most sought-after Sub collectible.

Over the years and through record sales at auctions, the Submariner quickly distinguished itself from its family of direct descendants, namely the 5512, 5513, and other 1680s... just as it distinguished itself from its predecessors, the 6200 model launched in 1953, and the 6204 model launched in 1954, along with the 6536/1. The "Big Crown", mentioned a little further down in this article, is certainly one of the determining factors...

The watch’s technical aspects

The watch is fitted on a 38 mm case, without a crown shoulder, another factor that makes it a very rare watch. The shoulders around the crown appeared on the model 5512, in 1959, and still do to this day.

The winding crown is considerably large, twice the size of other models (5508 and 6204 equipped with small crowns), which earned it the name "Big Crown" and gives it a distinctive look. The crown is stamped with the Rolex logo and the word "Brevet". This uniqueness spurred collector interest and enthusiasm, but the Big Crown isn't the only factor at play...

Several dials have equipped this watch depending on the years of production, making some models truly "rare birds". Without going into as precise a chronology as some manufacturers, like Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet, who have kept records to this day, we can distinguish four production series for the 6538 and... a good number of dials.

Characteristics	First Series
Insert	Black and grey aluminium insert without graduation on the first 15 minutes
Hands	Gold hands big second hand (lollipop)
Dial	Lacquered dial (nitrocellulose lacquer)
Plating	Electrolytic gold plating for the Submariner, logo, and top lines, with red for depth indication.

Characteristics	Second Series
Insert	Black and grey aluminium insert without graduation on the first 15 minutes
Hands	Gold hands big second hand (lollipop)
Dial	Lacquered dial (nitrocellulose lacquer)
Plating	Full gold plating (gilt)

Characteristics	Third Series
Insert	Black and grey aluminium insert without graduation on the first 15 minutes - Black and grey insert, red triangle without graduation on the first 15 minutes - Black and gray insert, red triangle with graduation on the first 15 minutes.
Hands	Gold hands big second hand (lollipop)
Dial	Lacquered dial (polyurethane lacquer)
Plating	Electrolytic gold plating for the Submariner, logo, and top lines with gold surface ink embossing for information.

Characteristics	Fourth Series
Insert	Black and gray insert, red triangle with graduation on the first 15 minutes.
Hands	Gold hour and minute hands and white seconds hand.
Dial	Lacquered dial (polyurethane lacquer)
Plating	Electrolytic gold printing for the Submariner, logo, and top lines with silver surface embossing for information.

Not to mention... the replacement dials

First Series Replacement

Lacquered "Swiss-t<25" (Rolex replacement in accordance with federal regulations for radium use)

Second Series Replacement

Matte "Swiss-t<25" (Rolex replacement in accordance with federal regulations for radium use)

Illustration of the various dials

All the above creates an overflow of information that we don't expect to be memorized by amateurs, or even by professionals...

The rarest dials

The rarest (and therefore most expensive) dials remain to this day the special dials called "3-6-9" which were produced for certain series. The rarest being undoubtedly the first series with gold embossing and the depth indication in red.

Numerous collectors and experts have kept so-called observation records concerning the "exact" production timelines of the brand's watch models. Today, there is no actual consensus on the exact production dates for any given dial... just a lot of information that could be cross-checked... and is sometimes contradictory. Needless to say, these numerous observations have not yet been confirmed by the manufacturer and most probably never will be.

Illustration of a Gilt dial 4 lines "3 Red"

On top of that, it was rather difficult for Rolex to keep control over international production and authorized distributors given the number of watches produced and distributed. In reality, it was not uncommon for "dead stock" watches to be recycled after spare parts were sent out. A yellowed dial on a watch produced in 1956 could have been replaced with a second or third-generation dial without the watch ever having left the store, only to be sold in 1960 or later!

For all these reasons, it's important to get the right advice and, most importantly, focus on the watch's condition rather than on uncertified details.

Why do certain dials turn yellow or become “tropical”?

This is likely a question that many collectors ask themselves, and it’s what gives a collector's watch its charm.

The first lacquer used for dials was a nitrocellulose lacquer. It contained solvents and would, therefore, dry very quickly after being applied, allowing dials to be produced more efficiently. However, this type of lacquer did have some drawbacks, the first being that the product was flammable and required very careful handling. The second, which is more interesting for collectors, is that this product is not very resistant to UV rays, so it yellows quickly and quite noticeably. The third downside is that the solvents contained in nitrocellulose react to changes in temperature and humidity over time. This produces what is known as "cracking", i.e., cracks. Additionally, the impact of radium on the dial adds to the charm or the distress, depending on your viewpoint. For some, this produces desirable tropical effects; for others, this damage is unwelcome.

Replacement dials

For vintage collector's watches, it’s rare to find that all parts are still original. The dial, often central to a watch's value (whether it’s a Rolex, a Patek, or an Audemars Piguet), doesn’t always withstand the test of time.

One needs to distinguish between replacement dials provided by Rolex in the 60s and 70s, and more recent service dials, which tend to reduce a watch's value significantly. While the 3-6-9 models or "four-line" dials now rival the Daytona Paul Newman in value, the Submariner 6538, even with a Rolex service dial, remains highly collectible. Service dials from the 60s and 70s have acquired their own patina and are considered collectors' items in their own right. The same applies to the Patek Nautilus model 3700, which, when fitted with "tritium" service dials, maintains significant value.

In our opinion, a well-preserved service dial can sometimes be preferable to a deteriorated or poorly restored original.

Movement

The Submariner 6538's movement is a 1030 clocked at a frequency of 18,000 Alt/h. It’s very reliable and sturdy, proven by years of consistent performance checks. This makes it an enormous asset for a collector's watch more than 60 years old.

Very few models have survived intact over the years. As a dive watch, only a few are still available in today’s market, and many have been well-preserved by owners over time.

In conclusion

The Big Crown is definitely one to collect quickly before they’re gone from the market or before successful auctions render it an "untouchable". This seems inevitable, as it has for other iconic watches of the brand.

Who wore the watch?

Sean Connery remains the most famous personality associated with this watch. Elvis Presley also admired the brand, and in the movie "Girls, Girls, Girls" the watch makes an appearance. To fuel the legend, during filming, Rolex reportedly refused to sponsor it, so the producer Albert Broccoli’s Submariner appears on screen instead. The watch that once equipped the British Navy commandos, the Submariner model 6538, has since been considered by collectors as the quintessential James Bond watch.

Both Sean Connery and Elvis wore it on a nylon strap, suggesting that the steel bracelet was less in vogue at the time.

On a completely different note, Chuck Yeager, the first American aviator to break the sound barrier and known for the GMT-Master named after him, also wore this iconic watch.

Considerations for knowledgeable amateurs and collectors when purchasing a 6538:

1. Get qualified advice from an expert or a knowledgeable collector.
2. As with most things, compare sources and information available.
3. Ensure the main components of the watch are in good condition (case, crown, case back, hands, dial).
4. Inspect the movement’s condition and verify functionality (parts are hard to find).
5. Look at the watch’s general condition. A watch in poor condition, even if "original" (unless it’s extremely rare and hard to find), is often problematic. It’s better to wager on a watch in good general condition even with replacement parts. A 6538 with a replacement dial in excellent condition and with a nice patina will always sell better than one with a deteriorated or unreadable lacquer.

We hope these lines have nurtured your passion and quenched your thirst for information. Feel free to contact us to discuss further.

Fabrice Guéroux (@FabriceGueroux) & Cyril Derveloy (@CyrilDerveloy_41W)

A few pictures of Rolex Submariner ref. 6538 brought to market by 41Watch

Discover the ref. 6538 by 41Watch

Other Submariner "Early Generation"