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Complete review of Richard Mille RM005
6 min read
The first RM reference, named "Tourbillon", generated unprecedented research and development costs, serving as a true experimental laboratory in terms of materials and finishes used in watchmaking. With a retail price of over €170,000 in 2001, the avant-garde brand made a strong impression in a segment with virtually no competition. For comparison, a Rolex Daytona "Paul Newman" was valued at around €30,000 at the time, as was a tourbillon from a prestigious manufacture.
Inspired by the DNA of motorsports, Richard Mille quickly became a partner of Le Mans Classic, a prestigious gathering of exceptional vintage automobiles.
Given the high entry cost to become the owner of a timepiece from the manufacture, the RM005 was launched in 2004 with a relatively “moderate” price of around €35,000—roughly the equivalent of 200,000 francs. An immediate success, the model stood out thanks to its compact size (38 x 45MM) while retaining the brand’s signature elements, including a tonneau-shaped case adorned with screws that have become the hallmark of the brand.
Although the model stands out for its simplicity and lack of complications—aside from a semi-instantaneous date display positioned at 7 o’clock—the RM005 greatly contributed to the brand’s aura on multiple levels:
Unlike previous references, the RM005 is the first model equipped with an automatic movement. The case design alone required over a year of research and development, involving no fewer than 68 operations to construct its three components (bezel, case middle, and caseback). The base Vaucher movement is equally impressive, notably with the introduction of Grade 2 titanium baseplates that underwent sandblasting followed by a PVD treatment. With an extreme attention to detail in their finish, the PVD coating allows no room for error—any tool mark becomes immediately visible, making this a watch with a particularly high rejection rate during production.
With 28,800 vibrations per hour, the RM005-1 movement has a power reserve of 55 hours.
The sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) is treated with anti-reflective coating on both the outer and inner surfaces.
The oscillating weight of the RM005 movement was the subject of a patented innovation: a variable-geometry rotor. With no fewer than six adjustable positions, the rotor’s vanes can be adapted to the wearer’s lifestyle (very active or more sedentary) in order to increase or reduce the centrifugal force.
With a case thinner than that of a Rolex Daytona (11.5mm vs. 12.2mm), the model appeals with its compact dimensions, making it suitable for all wrist sizes.
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The case reflects the brand’s signature design codes, featuring eight proprietary screws made of Grade 5 titanium. Known for their extreme strength, these screws are typically used in the aerospace industry. Its exceptional construction allows for water resistance rated to a depth of 100 meters.
The dial is made of sapphire and measures just 0.4mm thick. It offers a view of the movement’s fine finishing while creating the illusion that the numerals are floating.
With both the case and the movement manufactured by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, Richard Mille turns to the finest players in the watchmaking industry for the production of its components. Complicated versions, such as the Tourbillons, are entrusted to the Audemars Piguet Renaud Papi manufacture, which is a minority shareholder in Richard Mille.
The Richard Mille RM005 was originally released with a smooth leather strap and a pin buckle, with the option to switch to a folding clasp.
It is also possible to fit colored rubber straps, as well as Velcro straps more recently produced by the manufacture.
The RM005 reference was offered in white gold, platinum, titanium, PVD-coated titanium, and rose gold, among which several limited editions can be identified.
This edition features the national colors of Brazilian Formula 1 driver Felipe Massa, with a ring detail referencing the Brazilian flag. The titanium case received a PVD treatment.
Unlike the titanium version, the platinum version features a blue ring. Notably, the number 6 appears in red.
30 pieces produced
Unveiled in partnership with the Malaysian sailing race "Monsoon Cup," this 30-piece series was crafted in white gold. It features special markings on the dial, along with a unique engraving on the left side of the case.
Edition produced in collaboration with the French designer-architect, it was sold during the Only Watch charity event in 2005. This edition was auctioned for €285,000—a figure that made headlines at the time!
The RM005 reference would gradually be replaced nearly two years later, in 2006, by the RM010 to meet market demand for larger cases (48 x 39.3mm for the RM010 vs. 45 x 37.8mm for the RM005). The case’s water resistance was reduced to 50 meters (compared to 100 meters for the RM005). The movement remained unchanged, aside from a few aesthetic updates such as skeletonized baseplates for a more open-worked look.
Although the brand is sometimes criticized for its brightly colored or overly large models, the RM005’s case proportions make it a relatively understated Richard Mille, easy to wear on a daily basis. Sitting on the edge of neo-vintage, the model embodies the brand’s essence, featuring all the attributes that helped cement Richard Mille’s legendary status.
This model is undeniably a collector’s piece, if only for its historical significance. At 41Watch, we are definitely fans of this legendary reference.