Why this reference?
This watch is one of the five references I have chosen in the "Investing in a Rolex" section, meaning a watch with strong investment potential. And, of course, a watch that has all my favor!
The Sea-Dweller "triple six" gets its name from its reference: 16660. It was produced from 1983 to 1989.
In my opinion, this model appeals to any collector looking to own a relatively rare and still affordable collectible timepiece, which, if well-maintained and even better if fully complete, will become a collector’s item like the 1665 in the near future.
A model with untapped potential
In the world of collectible watches, there are several sub-segments in which references are classified today: Broadly speaking, collectible watches can have fully exploited potential, revealed potential, and emerging potential. From my perspective, the 16660 reference, the "Triple 6," is a watch with significant yet untapped potential. Two main reasons in my opinion: The 16660 follows in the footsteps of its big sister, the 1665, benefiting from a pull effect (similar to how the Daytona 16520 benefits from the aura of the 6263 or 6265, for example), which is not yet fully materialized. Moreover, as with all professional models, it was produced in relatively limited quantities, which enhances and will ultimately drive its desirability.
A transitional model
First of all, this is a reference that fully deserves its label as a "transitional model." After years of loyal service from the Sea-Dweller reference 1665, the ultimate diving model initially developed for the COMEX company, Rolex decided, again in collaboration with the same company, to increase the watch’s diving capacity to 1220 meters. Hence the introduction of a new reference...
The evolution of the model
As mentioned earlier, the watch’s depth resistance increased from 2000 feet (610 meters) to 4000 feet (1220 meters). Of course, a human will never descend to such depths, except inside a bathyscaphe. This is precisely why this watch was developed, featuring the addition of a helium valve to expel the gas accumulated in the watch during diving. Without this feature, the watch would simply eject the crystal during ascent, not to mention other potential damage.
The crystal
The 16660 reference is notably marked by the disappearance of plexiglass. At these depths, a much stronger material is preferred. The crystal is now sapphire, thicker than that of the Submariner.
The bezel
The 16660 features a unidirectional bezel with a locking mechanism (using clicks). Once again, practicality and safety are prioritized.
The movement
The 16660 saw the replacement of the 1575 movement with the new 3035 movement, which is faster, more robust, and finally includes a quick date change.
The dial
The model we selected is equipped with an MK2 dial.
The MK2 was Rolex’s response at the time to the persistent returns of the MK1 to workshops due to its tendency to develop cracks in its varnish. Some collectors, or rather dealers, nicknamed it "spider." An advantage? I don’t think so. The major issue with the "Spider" dial is its fragility. When it needs to be removed from the movement for servicing, it is a nightmare for the watchmaker because it often breaks into pieces! Something to consider...
The main notable differences on the MK2 dial are (i) the addition of a hyphen between "Sea" and "Dweller" and (ii) the quality of paint used. The quality of the paint resulted in a unique characteristic: the varnish does not crack but becomes matte.
The indexes, still tritium-based, can turn cream, orange, or brown. The combination of cream-colored indexes with the matte dial gives a striking appearance and makes watches with such dials a collector’s item, hence significant interest from collectors.
The collector/investor’s perspective
Reasons to include this watch in your collection:
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Consistent price increase (2500 euros in 2005) and expected to rise further
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Low production over six years
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The "full set" is highly recommended: original box, outer box, pouch, tag, plaque, manual, calendar, and certificate are a clear advantage for a relatively modern watch
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Growing collector interest in the Sea-Dweller
Adding to that, this watch’s trajectory seems increasingly aligned with that of the 1665, double red and great white models, making it a joy to collect with minimal risk.
