In this article, we will focus on three models of the 1680 "RED," equipped with dials commonly referred to as "Feet-First."
What are we talking about?
The Rolex Submariner RED models are part of the Rolex legend, easily recognized by their "Red" inscription on the dial. However, it is essential to differentiate between the different versions of a red Submariner dial. There are no fewer than six different dials for this legendary reference, the 1680 Submariner, also known as "RED." Add to this three dials for the "white" version, and confusion reigns among amateur collectors.
A bit of history
In the late 1960s, the first Submariner with a date appeared, indicating a diving capacity of 200 meters on the dial as follows: 200m – 660ft. Three dials were produced for what we will call the "Meter First" (indication in meters before feet), namely Mark1, Mark2, and Mark3.
After producing the Mark3 dial, Rolex decided, for reasons still unknown to this day, to reverse the meters and feet. This marked the beginning of the "Feet First" era, the subject of this article. It is worth noting that these parameters were of little importance to Rolex customers at the time. However, today, this information is crucial and greatly impacts the watch's value.
There are three "Feet First" dials (Mark4, Mark5, and Mark6). Based on observations not confirmed by Rolex, the production sequence appears to be as follows:
| Reference |
Production Years |
| Mark1 |
1969 - 1970 |
| Mark2 |
1969 - 1970 |
| Mark3 |
1969 - 1970 |
| Mark4 |
1972 - 1973 |
| Mark5 |
1972 - 1973 |
| Mark6 |
1972 - 1975 |
Specialized websites provide even more precise details:
| Reference |
Production Years |
| MarkI |
2.07M to 2.2M |
| MarkII/III |
2.2M to 2.45M |
| MarkIV |
2.45M to 3.?M |
| MarkV |
2.?M to 3.?M |
| MarkVI |
3.?M to 4.0M |
Our analysis shows that no one has been able to formally verify this information. We doubt even Rolex could justify the stock management of their dials. Dial production for types Mark1 to Mark6 spanned from 1969 to 1975, and several types may have been mounted on the same year's "RED" Submariner models.
This article focuses solely on the "Feet First" dials and how to differentiate them.
The Rolex Submariner "Feet First" Dials
Rolex Submariner Red Dial Mark 4 (or MKIV)
The Rolex Submariner "Feet First" Mark4 dial has the following characteristics:
The "Submariner" red inscription is printed on a white underlayer, often visible on the edges, with a bright red color. The two 6s in "660" are widely open. The first "E" in "Chronometer" aligns vertically with the "D" in "Certified." The "F" in "Ft" has an angular design. The oval opening of the Rolex crown is pointed, with low branch bases.
Rolex Submariner Red Dial Mark 5 (or MKV)
The Rolex Submariner "Feet First" Mark5 dial has the following characteristics:
The "Submariner" red inscription is printed directly on the black dial. The red is duller. The two 6s in "660" are narrower (more closed) than on the Mark4. The "RO" in "Chronometer" aligns vertically with the "ER" in "Certified." The "F" in "Ft" has a rounded design, and the bars of F and T are aligned. The oval opening of the Rolex crown is rounded, with high branch bases.
Rolex Submariner Red Dial Mark 6 (or MKVI)
The Rolex Submariner "Feet First" Mark6 dial has the following characteristics:
The "Submariner" red inscription is printed directly on the black background. The "S" in Submariner is rounded. The red is often quite bright with thicker paint. The two 6s in "660" are closed. The first "E" in "Superlative" aligns vertically with the "O" in "Officially." The "F" in "Ft" has a rounded design, and the bars of F and T are aligned. The oval opening of the Rolex crown is rounded, with low branch bases.
IMPORTANT: Note that a service dial post-MK6 exists. It is easily identifiable by its indexes, no longer lit with Tritium but with Luminova. This dial is not marked "Swiss - T - 25" but only "SWISS." In this case, the watch's value drops significantly.
Exclusivity of the Various Submariner 1680 "RED" Models
We offer a subjective classification based on 20 years of experience in watch collecting. These models are rated as follows, with a rarity factor on a scale of 1 to 5 (5 being "very rare"):
| Reference |
Rating |
| Mark1 |
5 |
| Mark2 |
4 |
| Mark3 |
4 |
| Mark4 |
1 |
| Mark5 |
3 |
| Mark6 |
1 |
Note that these "RED" models are far rarer than the "White" dials, which were produced in much larger quantities after 1975. The Submariner "RED" is therefore a rare model regardless.
Which One to Choose?
I would always be inclined to say that a "heart choice" will always take precedence in such a purchase. If you wish to collect while investing, I would recommend the 1680 MK5 version, as it appears to have been produced in smaller quantities (based on observations). However, you should know that the price difference between these three models (MK4, MK5, MK6) is relatively minor, with the general condition of the watch—case, dial, and bracelet—being the most critical factor.
And most importantly, do not overlook the advice of an expert, which will prove to be a wise investment in the long run.
