To understand the history of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, it is necessary to project ourselves to a time when the importance of deep-sea exploration went far beyond the wonderful documentaries of Commander Cousteau. From an industrial and financial perspective, these explorations represented significant economic potential, especially in the field of offshore oil exploration.
Rolex understood the commercial and marketing potential of this development very well, and from the mid-1960s, they began working on the development of a watch for deep-sea diving.
There are nearly 12 different generations of Sea-Dweller 1665 divided into 3 families:
- "Early Generation" (MK00)
- "Double Red" (MK0 to MK4)
- "Great White" (MK0 to MK4)
The advent of bathyscaphe descents using helium (developed in 1961 by the French company COMEX) led to a close collaboration between the two companies. Without delving into complicated technical details, the specifications were as follows: beyond 100 meters, various components of air become toxic. COMEX developed Heliox (a mixture of helium and oxygen). Under the direction of Henri-Germain Delauze, a renowned diver and founder of COMEX (founded in 1961), this development allowed divers to work in pressurized and sealed chambers in underwater construction sites on a daily basis.
Rolex and the Development of the Sea-Dweller
Rolex worked closely with Comex and developed a prototype watch that quickly became a success. This prototype was based on the Rolex Submariner 5513, specially named "5514" for this occasion. Technically, the fine molecules of the helium/oxygen mixture entered the watch during descent, which did not affect the functioning of the movement. However, during ascent (decompression), it was imperative for the gaseous mixture to escape quickly to prevent the watch from exploding.
This phenomenon led Rolex to develop its famous "gas escape valve" patent. This system allowed them to take a Submariner to a depth potential of 600 meters, and the reference 5514 became the 1665 Sea-Dweller. This was highly publicized at the time and led Rolex to offer this reference to the general public, a reference that was previously reserved for professionals.
In 1967, this deep-sea watch was presented at Baselworld, displaying 610 meters on the dial.
From this pivotal year for the brand, the Sea-Dweller continued to be developed, leading to the recent development of the "Sea-Dweller Deepsea Challenge" (reference 126067) which, in 2022, boasts a depth rating of 11,000 meters! However, let's focus on the reference that gave rise to this true "horological bathyscaphe," the Sea-Dweller 1665.
The Different Generations of Sea-Dweller
The First Generation - Sea-Dweller 1665 MK00
Known as Mark 00 among collectors, this watch is the first true Sea-Dweller. Manufactured in very small quantities, this initial reference was not offered to the general public, as it was intended only for professionals and was still in the development phase. We are talking about a prototype here. The dial displays "Sea-Dweller" in red, retains the "Submariner" marking, and shows a depth rating of 500 meters (1650ft).
Sea-Dweller 1665 MK00 Dial ©AK.
The Second Generation of Sea-Dweller, the First "Double Red" - MK0
The second version of the Sea-Dweller features two superimposed red lines, "SEA-DWELLER / SUBMARINER." Very rare as well, it was also intended for professionals and not available to the general public.
Sea-Dweller 1665 MK0 Dial ©Doubleredseadweller.
The Second 1665 "Double Red" - MK1
This is the first version of the reference offered to the general public (produced from 1967 – serial number 1.6XX.XXX). It's the first version displaying "double red" on its dial with two superimposed lines "SEA-DWELLER / SUBMARINER 2000" (2000 for 2000 ft).
Production observed: 1.6XX.XXX to 2.2XX.XXX (1967 to approximately late 1969).
Photo © Delgado.
Important detail (photo above): the ink used on this version tended to fade and turn pink or even white after the complete disappearance of the red due to UV exposure.
Photo © DRSD.
The Sea-Dweller 1665 "Double Red" - MK2
This version of the dial was mainly observed from 1968 onwards. The printing of the dial is mainly characterized by direct red ink printing on the dial (the red of MK1 was superimposed on white markings). The font size of the second red line is smaller, and the ink black/varnish mix on this dial has a specific characteristic highly appreciated by collectors in that many specimens turned brown. Among the distinctive features, the crown guard is almost nonexistent on this version.
Production observed: 1.6XX.XXX to 3.5XX.XXX (1967 to approximately late 1973). It is more likely that these dials were produced from 1968, and the 1967 models equipped with these dials went through Rolex service.
Illustration of a 1665 MK2 by 41Watch
Focus on the "double red" inscription of an MK2 by 41Watch
The Sea-Dweller 1665 "Double Red" - MK3
Version relatively similar to MK 2. Here, it is more difficult for the layman to differentiate between the two dials, and this differentiation mainly depends on the alignment of letters relative to each other and an open crown guard.
Otherwise, the red printing is directly on the dial, the "6" is still open, and some dials of this version turned brown, giving this dial an extra characteristic.
Production observed: 2.6XX.XXX to 3.5XX.XXX and versions up to 4.1XX.XXX (1973 – 1975).
Illustration of a 1665 MK3 with its "faded" insert by 41Watch
Focus on the inscription "double red" of an MK3 by 41Watch
The Last Sea-Dweller 1665 "Double Red" - MK4
This last version of the double red dial is the most common version. The reason for this is that it was produced for the majority of the 1665 production (1972 – 1978). You will notice that the different versions of dials are not really chronological and overlap during different productions. As a distinctive feature, you will first notice a very different type of ink compared to previous versions. Indeed, the white ink gives a "pointillism" impression, probably due to a more diluted ink than the others. It is also the only version with a closed and straight "6."
On the crown guard side, the size of the crown guard is larger with sharper points and a more pronounced circular opening. Note, finally, the return of white-red superimposition on the first two lines.
Production observed: 3.0XX.XXX to 5.2XX.XXX (Late 1972 – 1978).
Illustration of a 1665 MK4 by 41Watch
Focus on the inscription with the "closed 6" by 41Watch
The 1665 "Great White": the End of "Red" and "SUBMARINER"
In early 1978, Rolex removed the red markings on the Sea-Dweller as well as the Submariner. Like most Rolex watches, the version presented at Baselworld has a dial that was very rarely produced. This is the MK 0, which equipped the very first pieces produced, very quickly replaced by the MK1. There were no technical changes to the watch, but there was a design modification on the dial (disappearance of red and changes in the inscriptions engraved on the case back).
The Sea-Dweller 1665 "Great White" MK0
The rarest of all, this is the version used for the booklet delivered with the watch. You will notice the absence of "Submariner," replaced by depth indication.
Production observed: 5.0XX.XXX to 5.3XX.XXX (late 1977 for very few models - early 1978).
The Sea-Dweller 1665 "Great White" MK1
The model was launched, and it was a success. Rolex started production of a reference that remained in the catalog until 1983. The MK1 version is quite easy to differentiate because it is the first and only version of the "Great White" to display "ft" (feet) straight. The subsequent versions all had "ft" in italics.
Production observed: 5.18X.XXX to 6.2XX.XXX (1978-1979).
1665 MK1 - ©Nobeluhrenstore
The Sea-Dweller 1665 "Great White" MK2 "Rail Dial"
Considered a rare version, the main feature of this MK2 is a change of manufacturer. It was Stern that was responsible for producing this dial. The alignment of the inscription "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" makes it the easiest dial to identify. On both lines and between each word, the alignment is the same, leaving an identical space in the center of each line, hence the name "Rail Dial."
It should be noted that Stern also produced a series of dials labeled "COMEX" based on the same "rail dial" design.
Production observed: 5.7XX.XXX to 6.2XX.XXX (late 1978 to 1979).
Rolex Sea-Dweller 1665 MK2 from 1979, known as "Rail Dial"
Discover the 1665 Rail Dial
The Sea-Dweller "Great White" MK3
Differentiating between MK3 and MK4 dials remains quite challenging because the differences mainly involve the alignment of letters relative to each other. It is simpler to illustrate this with photos highlighting these alignments.
Production observed: 6.XXX.XXX to 6.8XX.XXX (1979 to 1981).
Illustration of different letter alignments on a 1665 MK3 dial
The Sea-Dweller "Great White" MK4
On this version, the "R" under the "2" is not aligned in the same way. Also, the "6" in "610" is more rounded than on the MK3 version.
Production observed: 6.8XX.XXX to the end of the model's production (approximately 1981 to late 1983).
Illustration of a 1665 MK4 dial
How to Identify Fake Rolex Sea-Dweller 1665 Dials
If we stick to a precise analysis of the dials presented in this article, it seems relatively simple to proceed with authentication or rather, we could say, classification of the dial type. Based on this, it is possible to verify, based on the serial number or year of production of the watch, whether the dial corresponds to the watch.
There are other identification factors that will be discussed in a future article, including case backs and case backs.
However, the game would be too easy if there were no fake dials. Fortunately, most of them do not respect either the letter alignments or the quality of manufacturing, but beware, some of them can mislead a too hasty buyer... Here are some to conclude this article.
Some Illustrations of Fake Dials
Fake Sea-Dweller 1665 "Double Red" Dial.
Fake Sea-Dweller 1665 "Double Red" Dial.
Fake Sea-Dweller 1665 "Double Red" Dial.
Fake Sea-Dweller 1665 "Great White" Dial.
