The Grandes Complications Collection at Patek, whether vintage or modern watches, meaning those still in production, has always held a very special place at 41Watch.
In the vein of these highly specialized articles, we have chosen to focus on a model, which at the time of writing, is still in the Patek Philippe catalog: The latest interpretation of the perpetual calendar collection by Patek Philippe since 2016, the 5327 collection succeeds reference 5140 (which in turn replaced the legendary 3940). The 5327 comes in two versions, one in white gold with a blue dial, which we chose to describe here, and the other in rose gold (and previously in yellow gold), the 5327R, with an ivory lacquered dial, much more conventional in our opinion!
The 3940G (36mm) and 5140G (37.2mm) references in white gold.
Changing everything, without changing anything...
All the references mentioned earlier are powered by the legendary calibre 240 introduced in 1977 during Thierry Stern's era, and Patek Philippe has not changed its winning formula for the 5327 by keeping one of the most iconic calibers, both at Patek and in the history of modern watchmaking.
The 240 caliber
With a diameter of 39mm, the case of the 5327G reference fits perfectly on the wrist. The redesigned lugs, similar to those on references 5905 and 5205R, allow for a slimmer case, offering a more modern look.
The ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement is the famous Calibre 240 Q, featuring day, date, month, leap year, and 24-hour indication by hands. The movement is admirably finished with the central micro-rotor.
The crown in an especially thin case
The 39mm diameter allows for a beautiful dial opening, placing the 5327 in the category of modern watches.
Stunning with its multiple reflections, the iridescent blue dial is enhanced by “Breguet” numerals, giving it a distinctly sporty touch (also found on "Pilot" type watches).
Some may mention relative legibility on the 5327 dial. In our view, while it's true that the legibility of perpetual calendars is often criticized to varying degrees, it seems difficult to instantly "read" the time, date, day, etc. However, a trained eye can retrieve the needed information in the correct spot!
We are personally blown away by the level of detail and finish of this watch, a characteristic that is very pronounced at Patek and has built its reputation. When you hold the piece in your hands, you undeniably feel a sense of quality, attention to detail, and superb craftsmanship.
As is now the case with Patek’s complicated watches, the 5327G is equipped with a folding clasp featuring the Calatrava cross.
The folding clasp bearing the Calatrava cross
An essential watch?
How do we position ourselves on this exceptional watch with its outstanding heritage? Some might argue that the original model is the most "interesting," the one most steeped in history. In this regard, the 3940 was one of Philippe Stern’s favorite models, and the 5327 has the difficult task of carrying that legacy. Our view is that we must distinguish the different evolutions without necessarily ranking them.
The 3940 and 5140 are watches imbued with classicism, representing the quintessence of the Grandes Complications watches at Patek Philippe. The 5327, and especially the 5327G, are watches with the same genetic imprint and a touch of modernity that differentiates them noticeably. To begin with, the case size makes it a modern watch, more "in line with current tastes," while the dial color of the 5327G (identical to the 5140P) and the Arabic numerals give it a more sporty look. In other words, we can't compare what is incomparable; we can only celebrate the fact that Patek Philippe is a great house that continues to innovate and evolve its models while remaining true to its traditions and heritage!
We, for our part, were charmed by this model, which we affectionately nicknamed "same same, but different"!
Since we launched the 41Watch Blog, which is the essence of the eponymous magazine, many articles have been dedicated to the Grandes Complications watches of the Geneva manufacture. Here are a few examples (not an exhaustive list):
- The Caliber 240
- The History of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendars
- The Variations of the 3970 Chronograph
- The Second Series of the 3940
- The Platinum 5970 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
